CURRENT FOCUS

What if skin type is the wrong question?

Geraint Thomas Bio follows questions like these through the biology underneath them. Right now, the focus is epidermal biology and the science behind skincare, with new topics added as the work develops.

Ways into the science

01 / Foundations

Scratch the surface.

Start with the core biology behind the subject.

The Ingredient Worked in Cells. Does That Mean It Works on Skin?

When Does Urea Stop Being a Moisturiser?

Why Does Skin Feel Tight After Cleansing?

03 / Deep dives

Down the rabbit hole.

Take one question through the evidence and the competing explanations.

The Damaged Skin Barrier

The long-form version of the questions that started this site.

Written for scientifically curious readers and skin professionals.

Cover of The Damaged Skin Barrier: A Biochemist's Guide to Barrier Biology, Damage and Repair, by Geraint Thomas
252REFERENCES
24ORIGINAL FIGURES
11CHAPTERS
0ROUTINES

The skin, by scale.

Six depths, from the whole organ to a single molecule. Select one to zoom in.

10 cm
1 cm
1 mm
100 nm

Zoomed in · illustrative, not to scale

01 · The organ

The body's boundary.

Roughly 1.5 to 2 m² of surface

Around two square metres of tissue deciding, continuously, what gets in and what stays. Most of that decision is made in the outermost fraction of a millimetre.

02 · The epidermis

Rebuilt from the bottom up.

About 0.1 mm over most of the body

Roughly the thickness of a sheet of paper. New cells form at the base and take around six weeks to reach the surface, changing all the way up.

03 · The stratum corneum

Dead, and still working.

15 to 20 cell layers, 10 to 20 µm

The outermost layers are no longer alive in the cellular sense. They still hold water in, keep most things out and shed on a controlled schedule.

04 · The corneocyte

The brick.

30 to 40 µm across, under 1 µm thick

A flattened cell packed with keratin and sealed inside a cornified envelope. Wide and extraordinarily thin, tiled against its neighbours.

05 · The lipid matrix

The mortar.

Lamellae repeating at roughly 13 nm

Ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids stacked in ordered sheets between the corneocytes. Their organisation sets how quickly water escapes.

06 · The molecule

Where the barrier is decided.

A few nanometres

Filaggrin, ceramides and the enzymes that process them. Most of what happens at the surface was settled here, long before it arrived.

Scale figures are approximate adult values. Images are illustrations.

Every claim should have a paper trail.

A result is only as strong as the experiment behind it.

Choose a claim, then select an underlined phrase. Each question shows what would strengthen the claim and what would still leave doubt.

A claim to examine

.

Select an underlined phrase to test what the evidence supports.
Ask

Was the difference inherited?

Evidence that strengthens it

A genotype measured independently of active skin disease, with the variant’s frequency compared in people with and without eczema.

What leaves doubt

Reduced filaggrin staining in an inflamed lesion. Inflammation can itself lower filaggrin expression.

Ask

Which variants?

Evidence that strengthens it

Clearly defined loss-of-function variants in the FLG gene, with the variants tested stated for the population studied.

What leaves doubt

A vague label such as “low filaggrin” that mixes gene variants, protein abundance and assay results.

Ask

How much risk?

Evidence that strengthens it

An effect estimate with uncertainty, preferably replicated in another cohort. Genetic association supports a role in susceptibility.

What leaves doubt

Treating a higher risk as proof that the variant alone causes eczema in every carrier.

Ask

Which disease and population?

Evidence that strengthens it

A stated diagnostic definition and ancestry or population context; variant frequencies and effects differ across populations.

What leaves doubt

Applying findings from one set of variants or one cohort to all people with atopic dermatitis.

A claim to examine

.

Select an underlined phrase to test what the evidence supports.
Ask

Did the compound act through protein X?

Evidence that strengthens it

Show target engagement, then corroborate the result with an independent inhibitor or genetic perturbation; a rescue experiment is stronger still.

What leaves doubt

Assume a compound is selective because its label names protein X. Off-target effects can produce the same result.

Ask

What does “sensitises” mean here?

Evidence that strengthens it

Compare TRAIL alone, inhibitor alone and the combination across doses. Claim synergy only after testing the combination against a defined additivity model.

What leaves doubt

Call the combination synergistic simply because it has a larger effect than either treatment alone.

Ask

Which cells were tested?

Evidence that strengthens it

Identify the cell models and repeat the finding in independent models, including relevant non-malignant cells where selectivity is part of the claim.

What leaves doubt

Generalise from one immortalised cell line to “cancer cells” as a whole.

Ask

How was the response measured?

Evidence that strengthens it

A defined viability assay, suitable controls and independent repeats can show whether the inhibitor changes the cells’ response to TRAIL.

What leaves doubt

An unreplicated result, or an assay without clear controls and normalisation, makes the size of the effect hard to judge.

A claim to examine

.

Select an underlined phrase to test what the evidence supports.
Ask

How was “high” defined?

Evidence that strengthens it

Use a prespecified threshold, or develop it in one dataset and evaluate it in a separate cohort. Analyse the continuous measurement too when possible.

What leaves doubt

Choose the cut-off that gives the smallest P value in the same patients and present it as established.

Ask

What was measured, and in which cells?

Evidence that strengthens it

Describe the assay, its reproducibility and whether the signal comes from tumour cells or surrounding tissue.

What leaves doubt

Treat bulk RNA from mixed tissue as a direct measure of protein abundance in tumour cells.

Ask

Association or useful prediction?

Evidence that strengthens it

Test whether the marker adds information beyond established factors such as stage, then validate the model in new patients.

What leaves doubt

Use a single unadjusted association to imply the marker can predict an individual patient’s future.

Ask

What outcome, and with what precision?

Evidence that strengthens it

Define overall survival and follow-up; report an effect estimate with a confidence interval and numbers at risk.

What leaves doubt

Say “worse prognosis” without a defined endpoint, adequate follow-up or an estimate of uncertainty.

Questions that apply to every claim

How many independent observations?

Three wells from one cell preparation do not make three independent experiments. Count the independent cultures, samples or people.

Could expectation affect the result?

Blinding matters when a person scores an image, stain or lesion. Ask whether the scoring rule was set in advance.

Has the result been replicated?

Independent replication in a new cohort, cell model or lab helps show whether the finding is reliable beyond the original experiment.

Evidence behind these examples: FLG genetics · inflammation and filaggrin · drug combinations · cell-death assays · REMARK guidance. The drug and biomarker claims are illustrative, not reports of a particular study.

Geraint Thomas, biochemist and author
Geraint Thomas, MBiochemBiochemist and science writerCardiff, South Wales

Hello, I'm Geraint.

I’m a biochemist interested in how biological systems behave, adapt, and more so, when and why they fail.

I took an integrated master’s in biochemistry at Cardiff University and graduated with a First. My research year was at the European Cancer Stem Cell Research Institute, studying how breast cancer stem-like cells resist death-receptor signalling.

After that I spent several years outside science. Skin biology is what brought me back.

The way of thinking carried over: what was measured, in what, and what does the mechanism say? The epidermis turned out to be a good place to use it. It became The Damaged Skin Barrier and this site. I wrote the book, drew its figures and built the platform myself.

First Class MBiochemCardiff UniversityTNF-family signallingLucidum Press

Where next?

Read, check a source, or meet the person behind it. Every route leads back to the evidence.